National Handloom Day 2024: Begumpuri to Chanderi, must-have handloom sarees

National Handloom Day is celebrated every year on August 7 to pay tribute to the handloom weavers in India and to showcase the country’s rich handloom industry. The Indian handloom legacy dates back centuries and is as diverse as the dialects and cuisine of our country. Each region has a rich weaving legacy that continues to thrive with ancient weaving techniques and designs. Adorned by people since ancient times, the saree is the most iconic traditional garment in India.
From becoming a cherished family heirloom to marking every auspicious moment in one’s life, sarees hold extraordinary sentimental significance in South Asian culture. With the increasing focus on handlooms owing to their sustainability and longevity, handloom sarees have gained immense popularity. Owning a piece of handloom is like possessing a piece of heritage art that seamlessly blends traditions with functionality. (Also read: Jayanti Reddy’s interview: Insights on her latest collection, cultural roots and the future of traditional crafts )
Asha Patil, Founder, Banjara Kasuti shared with HT Lifestyle some stunning must-have handloom sarees that demonstrate India’s vibrant cultural heritage:
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Mysore silk saree uncontested prestigious status continues to exude regal elegance and unrivalled grandeur. Originally reserved for royalty and later extended to high-ranking individuals, this luxurious saree is now adorned by one and all. Despite the influx of various saree styles in the market, the Mysore silk saree’s popularity and allure remain undiminished, owing to its enduring refinement and exceptional craftsmanship, along with its minimal maintenance requirement. The use of pure gold and silver threads not only enhances the beauty of the fabric but further promotes in its longevity, resulting in little to no fading of the vibrancy of the fabric.
A key feature of these sarees is their longevity – the colours rarely fade due to the use of pure gold and silver threads. While considered a premium and delicate textile, it surprisingly requires minimal maintenance. The beauty of Mysore silk sarees is often further elevated through the incorporation of Kasuti embroidery, intricately woven pallus, and innovative colour combinations. These enhancements serve to underscore the saree’s timeless appeal, seamlessly blending traditional aesthetics with contemporary tastes.
Originating from Begumpur, a small West Bengal town, Begumpuri cotton sarees are crafted from pure cotton and feature bold colour combinations with contrasting borders – typically incorporating geometric patterns, drawing inspiration from the aesthetic of neighbouring Northeast Indian states. Known for their durability, Begumpuri sarees are well-suited for everyday wear and work environments and are capable of withstanding long, busy days. The weave’s versatility is evident in its range of yarn counts, spanning from 60s (coarser cotton) to 100s (finer cotton).
Hailing from Tamil Nadu, Kanjivaram sarees are the product of expert craftsmanship, showcasing the meticulous work of talented artisans. These luxurious garments are created using high-quality pure mulberry silk, renowned for its lustrous appearance. What truly sets Kanjivaram sarees apart is their elaborate ornamentation. Complex patterns and motifs are intricately woven directly into the fabric. This is accomplished using authentic silver or gold zari threads, contributing significantly to the saree’s regal appearance.
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Originating from Madhya Pradesh, Chanderi sarees exemplify India’s rich textile heritage, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and delicate allure. These sarees captivate their audience with their hand-woven designs, shimmering texture, and intricate motifs, all meticulously crafted by skilled artisans. The mere mention of Chanderi sarees invokes images of regal elegance – reminiscent of a majestic past.
Tracing back its roots in the Vedic era, Chanderi sarees carry profound cultural significance, deeply intertwined with Indian history. The weaving tradition, handed down through generations, stands as a testament to the enduring artistry of its creators. From Mughal times to the present, cotton Chanderi sarees have adapted to changing trends while maintaining their distinctive character.
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Kalamkari sarees are highly regarded for their unique blend of traditional craftsmanship, artistic expression, and refined aesthetics. These garments stand out due to their handcrafted designs, which feature a rich tapestry of symbolic elements. The intricate patterns adorning Kalamkari sarees draw inspiration from a variety of sources, particularly ancient Indian mythology, such as gods, trees, flowers, animals, and birds.
Kalamkari, an art form practised in two distinct styles (Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti) in Andhra Pradesh, has consistently enchanted and fascinated its admirers. Its widespread appeal stems from a combination of factors: vibrant colour palettes, diverse thematic choices, precise linework, meticulous detailing, and versatility across various fabrics. The saree, in particular, serves as an ideal medium for Kalamkari artistry, allowing artisans to meticulously handcraft intricate narratives, lush floral designs, and other decorative motifs.
Bringing her expertise to the same, Aparna Thyagarajan, Chief Product Officer & Co-Founder, Shobitam, shared the latest trends in handloom sarees for your wardrobe.
A symbol of luxury and unparalleled craftsmanship, the Banarasi is an heirloom treasure. Varanasi also known as Banaras has been a melting pot of domestic and International influences due to its history as an ancient trade route and trending tourist destination. Hence the design vocabulary of Banaras is beautifully diverse reflecting Mughal, Persian, Hindu, and other Asian influences. A contemporary Banarasi saree is a multicultural tapestry of heritage.
Favoured by the Nawaabs of Lucknow, the elegance and beauty of an artisanal Chikankari are unmatched. The dense emboss-like hand embroidery on fabrics like chiffons and georgettes gives it a luxurious net-like appearance. With embellishments ranging from Mukeish work to meticulously woven paisleys to light and airy embroidery, Chikankari offers the perfect blend of minimalism and maximalism.
The design aesthetics of ancient Ikat have a timeless appeal that resonates with fashion today. Ikkat involves a complex resist dyeing technique with precise mathematical calculations. With vibrant geometrical patterns, fluid designs, and striking appeal, Ikkat remains a top choice for statement dressing.
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The contemporary appeal and breathability of the Linen saree make it a worthy candidate for all seasons. The distinct texture of the saree gives it a chic look. A versatile, perfect blend of style and comfort, these sarees are a sustainable choice that brings out one’s true personality with endless styling possibilities.